Fall Shows 2010

Bowler hats, waistcoats, petticoats, and pom pons... and no, this was not the cheering section for "Sherlock Holmes" at recent award shows--we are talking Paris fashion week. This fall, it looks like we taking it back, back beyond old-school, beyond vintage, we're talking American Centennial style.

Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton showed frocks with pinched waists given ethereal buoyancy from the masses of petticoats hidden underneath. These dresses ranged in length from just below the knee to pooling the floor, but the majority flitted at mid-calf adding a decidedly 50's element to the fall aesthetic. The fabrics were lush and opulent but the hues were subdued: gray of all shades, aubergine, blush, deep steel blue, gold, faded aqua, lavender, and rose dominated the collection bolstered by neutrals in rich textures of leather and satin.
The accessories (of course) were fantastic, particularly the pumps, which were block-heeled and platformless. They came in every shade and fabric imaginable. Fuchsia, aqua, mustard, gray and velvet, silk, satin, ostrich skin. Each shoe was topped (or more appropriately, toed) with a flat wide bow in a contrasting shade (and often fabric) from the body of the shoe. The bags, all variations on LV's classic Speedy bag, were offered just as much variety in color and texture as the shoes.


Now to the bowler hat. I will preface this with, this is NOT a look for everyone! Many of the models faces were overwhelmed by the hat--and if it is hard for a model, well, then you KNOW it is tricky. It looks best on those with strong angular faces on the wide side rather than thin (the face not the person). This season Jean Paul Gaultier created for Hermes a collection so powerful that it can not be called men's-ware inspired. It is a tailored, sexy, confident collection that is all female. The hats, umbrellas, and pocket watches now belong to the ladies! So girls, go raid grandpa's closet, and take what is meant to be yours.


The pom pon's are sadly not listed for praise. They were ridiculous, impractical, and in no way attractive when worn as head pieces during the Sonia Rykiel show. They can be seen either as massive tumors, or as a satellite caught in the models gravitational pull. Either way, not good.

Other great shows: Balmain (channeling a very French mid-18th century look)

and Nina Ricci by Peter Copping.





Some major duds were, to my dismay, Burberry and Rodarte (I can't even begin to describe this, see the picture to the left).



Garreth Pugh was also awful, his models looked as if they had encountered a deranged priest on Ash Wednesday, who with no time to wash up before the show, were forced out onto the runway in the costumes from a remake of "Metropolis."

Also, Viktor and Rolf... clever concept, but too bad the clothes were... ugly.




All-in-all this season showed clothes that were pretty, nostalgic (in a refreshing way--maybe we have been pushing modernity a little to hard), and wearable. Enjoy!